SURFING

One more post about Ecuador which I have been meaning to get back to before I got rudely interrupted by the big celebrations around here with the 5th birthday and all:)
Have you ever surfed? I have done a bit in my life, in fact first learning 4 years ago on the Jersey Shore from my good friend and boyfriend at the time that lives there. The entire trip to Ecuador was all based around surfing so I probably better prove that I actually did that while I was there…and I did…a LOT of it. We surfed 2 sessions per day for anywhere between 45 minutes to 2 hours. Exhausting and super fun. The water was wonderful and as long as there was cloud cover, it was a good time. Without the clouds, we would burn through no matter what SPF we put on so the clouds on this trip were a blessing. One of the greatest parts about surfing is just being in the water. Once you get out beyond the break, there is a peace in sitting and waiting. Sometimes it is with other people and sometimes it is all alone with thoughts and dreams and yourself. I learned a lot about reading what the water is going to do. There is a universal rhythm to the way the water moves and an ebb and flow to it all and to learn to watch and listen for that was a very peaceful and wonderful process. Most of the week I spent inside the break line as I am not interesting in getting completely tossed by some of the huge water we were in. The last few days I was beginning to get really daring as I had learned a lot and the last day I caught a HUGE wave, paddled in, caught it, and rode down the face of it. It was a super cool moment in my life. Unfortunately one cannot catch every moment on camera (though I do try my hardest) but it is a moment and feeling that is locked into my being forever. I am a snowboarder at heart, and surfing kind of fits into that as well. So I asked myself when I was out there on the water…if I love snowboarding so much, what is it that is missing from surfing that makes me not “over-the-top” crazy about it. Don’t get me wrong I do like to surf…but I LOVE to snowboard. What I realized is that I love the exploring part of snowboarding, almost like hiking but on a snowboard. My favorite places to snowboard are out west in Colorado and when I am there, not only do I get to ride snow waves, I also get to explore the outdoors with some of those places covering HUGE amounts of area. Some think I must be an adrenaline junkie to participate in some of the sports that I do. It isn’t that at all and if you saw how I ride, you would realize it is more of a meditation than anything. It is about being present and aware and in that place there is a lot of peace. RIDE ON!!!!

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  • Posted by Dorado on March 31, 2010 at 3:26 pm

    Well said ! ! ! (like all of your writing is for that matter)
    I must say just reading this has me stoked to go 'riding' right now…
    I am a believer that the 'zen of riding' may have something to do with the 'warrior position' stance that is similar in surfing and snowboarding. As it is a basis that enables our physically being to balanced, stable and grounded, and therefore the mind/spirit of our being is too…then you add in the pure & peaceful harmony with nature, and the adventure of it all…What a perfect mind, body, natural world connection, thus the completely alive and content way one feels with these experiences…I love it!!
    Thanks for posting this…!! 🙂

  • Posted by TallGuySurfing on April 02, 2010 at 3:27 am

    I haven't surfed Ecuador yet, but some friends and I are planning a trip there this fall. We've got a friend that's brother is a missionary so hopefully we'll get to volunteer and do some good while we're there as well as do two or three sessions a day. I've surfed most of Central America and there's nothing better than the wake up, surf, eat, nap, surf, beer, eat, sleep, repeat routine! Great post!